This INSTANT REPAIR MANUAL DOWNLOAD for the Polaris snowmobiles were designed primarily for factory service Polaris snow mobile technicians in a properly equipped shop. However, enough information in these Polaris snow mobile repair manuals is given for do-it-yourself or apprentice mechanics to correctly and safely perform repair work to their Polaris snow mobile and components. Individuals using this Polaris snow mobile repair manual should possess basic knowledge of tools and mechanical theory. The Polaris snow mobile mechanic should carefully read the text and become familiar with the Polaris snow mobile service manual procedures before beginning the work. Some repair procedures in this Polaris snow mobile downloadable manual may require the use of special tools. Its recommended to only use the exact tools, as specified in the factory Polaris snow mobile manual. Most tools can be rented at local parts stores. There's nothing these Polaris snow mobile repair manuals doesn't cover. From Polaris snow mobile maintenance procedures to complete Polaris snow mobile overhaul, these Polaris snow mobile manual covers it all.
The following check list of possible operating troubles and their probable causes will be helpful in keeping a motorcycle in good operating condition. More than one of these conditions may be causing the trouble and all should be carefully checked.
Starter Motor Does Not Operate or Does Not Turn Engine Over
- Ignition switch not in ON position.
2. Engine run switch in OFF position.
- 5. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or overrunning clutch slipping.
6. TSM/TSSM Bank Angle Sensor tripped and ignition switch not cycled OFF then ON.
3. Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections (solenoid chatters).
4. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start
- Fuel tank empty or fuel supply valve turned off.
2. Fouled spark plugs.
- 5. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal connections.
6. Engine lubricant too heavy (winter operation).
7. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose or cables connected to incorrect cylinders.
3. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichener.
4. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery, ECM connector or ignition control module connector.
9. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty coil, ECM, ignition control module or sensors (MAP, CKP).
- Spark plugs in bad condition or have improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery nearly discharged.
- 7. Intake air leak.
8. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or carburetor fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
9. Enrichener valve inoperative.
4. Loose wire connection at one of the battery terminals,
coil, ECM connector or ignition control module connector.
5. Carburetor controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor.
10. Engine lubricant too heavy (winter operation).
11. Ignition not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
12. Faulty ignition coil.
13. Valves sticking.
Starts But Runs Irregularly or Misses
- Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
11. Air leak at intake manifold or air cleaner.
12. Damaged carburetor.
13. Loose or dirty ECM connector or ignition control module connector.
14. Faulty Sensor(s): Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) and/or Crank Position (CKP).
15. Incorrect valve timing.
- 6. Damaged wire or loose connection at battery terminals, coil, ECM connector or ignition control module connector.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
A Spark Plug Fouls Repeatedly
- Fuel mixture too rich or enrichener left on too long.
- 3. Piston rings badly worn or broken.
4. Valve guides or seals badly worn.
2. Incorrect spark plug for the kind of service.
Pre-Ignition or Detonation (Knocks or Pings)
- Fuel octane rating too low.
2. Faulty spark plugs.
3. Incorrect spark plug for the kind of service.
4. Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or in combustion chamber.
5. Ignition timing advanced due to faulty sensor inputs (MAP and/or CKP).
- Insufficient oil supply or oil not circulating.
Pressure (MAP) and/or Crank Position (CKP).
5. Leaking valve.
- 2. Insufficient air flow over engine.
3. Heavy carbon deposit.
4. Ignition timing retarded due to faulty sensor(s): Manifold Absolute
Valve Train Noise
- Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning properly or oil passages obstructed.
- 5. Rocker arm binding on shaft.
6. Valve sticking in guide.
7. Chain tensioning spring or shoe worn.
2. Faulty hydraulic lifters.
3. Bent push rod.
4. Incorrect push rod length.
- Wheels and/or tires worn or damaged.
- 4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing advanced due to faulty sensor inputs (MAP and/or CKP)/poorly tuned engine.
2. Engine/transmission/rear wheel not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain badly worn or links tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
7. Internal engine problem.
8. Broken frame.
Check Engine Light Illuminates During Operation
- Fault detected. Check trouble codes for more information in service manual.
Oil Does Not Return To Oil Pan
- Oil pan empty.
2. Oil pump not functioning.
3. Restricted oil lines or fittings.
4. Restricted oil filter.
5. Oil pump misaligned or in poor condition.
6. O-ring damaged or missing from oil pump/crankcase junction (also results in poor engine performance).
Engine Uses Too Much Oil Or Smokes Excessively
- Oil pan overfilled.
- 4. Restricted oil filter.
5. Oil pump misaligned or in poor condition.
6. Piston rings badly worn or broken.
7. Valve guides or seals worn.
2. Restricted oil return line to pan.
3. Restricted breather operation.
8. O-ring damaged or missing from oil pump/crankcase junction (also results in poor engine performance).
9. Plugged crankcase scavenge port.
Engine Leaks Oil From Cases, Push Rods, Hoses, Etc.
- Loose parts.
2. Imperfect seal at gaskets, push rod cover, washers, etc.
3. Restricted breather hose to air cleaner.
4. Restricted oil filter.
5. Oil pan overfilled.
6. Lower rocker housing gasket installed incorrectly (upside down).
7. Restricted oil return line to tank.
Low Oil Pressure
- Oil pan underfilled.
2. Faulty low oil pressure switch.
5. Ball or clean-out plug missing or leaking in cam support plate.
6. O-ring missing from cam support plate.
- 3. Oil pump O-ring damaged or missing.
4. Bypass valve stuck in open position.
High Oil Pressure
- Oil pan overfilled.
2. Bypass valve stuck in closed position.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - Alternator Does Not Charge
- Voltage regulator/rectifier module not grounded.
- 4. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
5. Faulty stator and/or rotor.
2. Engine ground wire loose or broken.
3. Faulty regulator-rectifier module.
Alternator Charge Rate Is Below Normal
- Weak or damaged battery.
- 3. Faulty regulator-rectifier module.
4. Faulty stator and/or rotor.
2. Loose connections.
Speedometer Operates Erratically
- Contaminated speedometer sensor (remove sensor and clean off metal particles).
2. Loose connections.
- Dirt or other foreign matter between valve and its seat.
2. Inlet valve sticking.
6. Excessive “pumping” of hand throttle grip.
- 3. Inlet valve and/or valve seat worn or damaged.
4. Float misadjusted.
5. Leaky or damaged float.
- Primary chaincase overfilled with lubricant.
- 4. Shifter return spring (inside transmission) bent or broken.
5. Bent shifter rod.
2. Clutch dragging slightly.
3. Transmission lubrication too heavy (winter operation).
6. Shifter forks (inside transmission) sprung.
7. Corners worn off shifter clutch dogs (inside transmission).
Jumps Out Of Gear
- Shifter rod improperly adjusted.
- 4. Shifter forks bent.
5. Damaged gears.
2. Shifter drum (inside transmission) damaged.
3. Shifter engaging parts (inside transmission) badly worn and rounded.
- Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
3. Worn friction discs.
Clutch Drags Or Does Not Release
- Lubricant level too high in primary chaincase.
2. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
3. Primary chain badly misaligned.
4. Clutch spring tension.
5. Clutch discs warped.
- Friction discs or steel discs worn or warped.
HANDLING - Irregularities
- Improperly loaded motorcycle. Non-standard equipment on the front end such as heavy radio receivers, extra lighting equipment or luggage tends to cause unstable handling.
2. Damaged tire(s) or improper front-rear tire combination.
3. Irregular or peaked front tire tread wear.
4. Incorrect tire pressure.
8. Rear wheel out of alignment with frame and front wheel.
9. Steering head bearings improperly adjusted. Correct adjustment and replace pitted or worn bearings and races.
10. Loose spokes (laced wheel vehicles only).
11. Tire and wheel unbalanced.
12. Rims and tires out-of-round or eccentric with hub.
13. Rims and tires out-of-true sideways.
14. Rear fork pivot.
- 5. Shock absorber not functioning normally.
6. Loose wheel axle nuts. Tighten to recommended torque specification.
7. Excessive wheel hub bearing play.
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